Hola All, one of our last shots of Cartagena, another boat, day tripping. As a “weather window” seemed evident, Moody Blues took advantage of it and left Cartagena on Sunday, Jan 18^th. We knew initially it would  be rough going, so we beat into the wind and sea for 33 hours, then tucked into Bahía Guayraca, also known as one of the 5 Bays (of Columbia, approaching the border to Venezuela).

          Bahía Guayraca was a lovely, tiny, quiet village. As you can see the Santa Marta Mountains in the background feel “fjordish.” That night at anchor I awoke and smelled a rich, grassy, dirt smell. It was pungent and wonderfully wild and fresh. I took deep breaths. In the morning Gene cleaned Moody Blues’ bottom. It took him over 2 hours, it was filthy from only 18 days in Cartagena.

          About noon, Tues 1/20/09, we took off. We decided to blast out across the Sea instead of heading further east along Columbia’s shoreline. Big mistake . . .

          The next 5 nights we beat our brains out trying to get across the Caribbean Sea. We had our mainsail double reefed, single reefed, then double reefed again.

          We had the engine on, the engine off, the engine on. We had the headsail out, then reefed, then rolled back in and put the sta’sail back out. We kept trying to go east mostly to be dragged west by the strong, up to 1.5 knot, current. We did not want to go to Haiti, which we were rapidly heading for. We even discussed turning around and going to Aruba and then starting over from there to get across the Caribbean Sea! All in all, it was no easy feat. Wind gusting at 27 right on the nose, seas 2–9 feet. Rain, sun, sliver of a moon, no moon due to ominous clouds. It just wasn’t fun, and the reality of it is there is no way out once you are out there and committed. You just have to grin and bear it! Grrrrrrr!  

          But look what we saw when we arrived in Boca Chica, Dominican Republic on Sunday 1/25. Ah, bliss. With the Q (quarantine) flag flying we dropped anchor and immediately had a Piña Colada! (On board, of course, as we were not allowed off of Moody Blues until the officials arrived and checked us out.) Bring ‘em on.

                (This post is dedicated to Chris Edlen, Feliz Cumpleanos today buddy!)

CASTILLO SAN FELIPE is the largest fort in the city. I believe it was built in the 1600s. Moody Blues is anchored out in the bay, off of Club Nautico, which is located on the “manga.” The dictionary says manga means sleeve, hose pipe, net or filter. It also says in nautical terms that it means berth, as in wide berth (which is what I feel like these days.)  With four bridges coming onto and off the manga, it’s easy to tour wild and crazy Cartagena! Check out the fort:

THIS ISLAND IS called Isla Pinos (Pines Island) or in Kuna, Tupak. Tupak means whale in Kuna. Apparently when way out to sea the island of pines’ tall hill looks like a whale. According to the cruising guide there are only seven other anchorages from Tupbak to the Panamaian/Columbian border. At said border is a gulf where it is warned drugs are possibly run in and out of. Cruiser beware . . .  

Below is Chief Dominic of Tupbak, he doesn’t tolerate drugs as you can see, although he looks like a Godfather. We had to ask him permission to tour his island. For $2 each and the promise that we’d return to take his photo, he allowed us on the island and to take a tour with David, a guide. If you ask permission perhaps the Chief, the Jefe, will allow you to come too.

Traditionally dressed Kuna woman.                                    

Village of the Dead where Kunas are buried.

s/v Hiatus with Kent, Lara, Cobin, Joe (guests from Colorado) & Heather.

They arranged the island tour with David, a Kuna, who lives on Tupbak.

Many areas were tidy and flags could be seen throughout the village.

Hammock in the shade, a must!                        Limb fences.

Sunscreen Plant                                               Cobin and Lara adorned in Sunscreen plant

Black and Green Dart Frog. Tiny—cute.           Possibly a “The Postman” butterfly.

Breadfruit???                                                   Adorable Cobin. (From a very fun family.)

They grow corn.                                                Coconut drying or decoration?

Joe & Lara own a climbing gym. So . . .        Tour guide David leading us back down the hill. 

Colorful Tupbak Village.